Forgotten Perfumery Plants - Part II: New Insights into the Development of Novel Fragrant Ingredients - Hawthorn Case Study.

Naturalness is gaining ground among perfumers and the use of natural raw materials is spreading in perfumery. Forgotten perfumery plants are of concern to develop innovative and natural ingredients for modern perfume industries. The main purpose of this study was to evaluate the potential interest of Crataegus monogyna Jacq. extracts as fragrance ingredient. To this end, various extractions, phytochemical characterizations and organoleptic evaluations of hawthorn were conducted on fresh, frozen, and dried flowering aerial parts, to identify those most likely to be of interest. More than a hundred compounds, anisaldehyde being the predominant one, were characterized for the first time in the volatile fraction, using HS-SPME-GC-MS technology. Impact of plant treatment and harvest year on the extracts were also discussed. From this work, a new and natural hawthorn-based ingredient was developed to complete the perfumers' palette.