An optimised small-scale sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis using UHPLC-PDA applied to Scottish and English Renaissance embroidery.

A sample preparation workflow for historical dye analysis requiring less sample has been developed. Samples as small as 0.01 ± 0.005 mg have been successfully analysed and high percentage recoveries (>85%), more automation and shorter preparation time have been achieved using filtration by centrifugation and only one manual transfer. The optimised workflow based on 96 well plates together with the shorter UHPLC method developed makes dye analysis data collection faster from unprocessed sample to result, facilitating the creation of larger datasets and application of chemometric approaches. The method was evaluated on 85 samples from 12 dye sources (RSD < 5.1%, n = 5) as well as 22 samples from a 17th century embroidered stomacher from the National Museums Scotland (NMS) collection.