Microbiological Safety and the Management of Microbial Resources in Artisanal Foods and Beverages: The Need for a Transdisciplinary Assessment to Conciliate Actual Trends and Risks Avoidance.

Current social and environmental trends explain the rising popularity of artisanal fermented foods and beverages. In contrast with their marketing success, several studies underline a lack of regulations necessary to claim differences occurred from the farm to the fork and to certify high quality and safety standards. Microbial-based fermentative processes represent the crucial phase in the production of fermented foods and beverages. Nevertheless, what are the effects of the application of the "artisanal" category to the management of food fermentations? This opinion paper is built up on this issue by analyzing microbial aspects, instances of innovation, safety issues, and possible solutions. Evidence indicates: (i) a global curiosity to exploit food fermentations as drivers of innovation in artisanal contexts and (ii) an increasing interest of the artisanal producers into management of fermentation that relies on native microbial consortia. Unfortunately, this kind of revamp of "artisanal food microbiology," rather than re-establishing artisanal content, can restore the scarce hygienic conditions that characterized underdeveloped food systems. We highlight that in the scientific literature, it is possible to underline existing approaches that, surpassing the dichotomy between relying on spontaneous fermentation and the use of commercial starter cultures, depict a "third way" to conjugate interest in enhancing the artisanal attributes with the need for correct management of microbial-related risks in the final products.