The dermal papilla dilemma and potential breakthroughs in bioengineering hair follicles.

The generation and growing of de novo hair follicles is the most daring hair replacement approach to treat alopecia. This approach has been explored at least since the 1960s without major success. Latest in the 1980s, the realization that the mesenchymal compartment of hair follicles, the dermal papilla (DP), is the crucial signaling center and element required for fulfilling this vision of hair follicle engineering, propelled research into the fibroblasts that occupy the DP. However, working with DP fibroblasts has been stubbornly frustrating. Decades of work in understanding the nature of DP fibroblasts in vitro and in vivo have led to the appreciation that hair follicle biology is complex, and the dermal papilla is an enigma. Functional DP fibroblasts tend to aggregate in 2D culture, while impaired DP cells do not. This fact has stimulated recent approaches to overcome the hurdles to DP cell culture by mimicking their natural habitat, such as growing DP fibroblasts in three dimensions (3D) by their self-aggregation, adopting 3D matrix scaffold, or bioprinting 3D microstructures. Furthermore, including keratinocytes in the mix to form hair follicle-like composite structures has been explored but remains a far cry from a useful and affordable method to generate human hair follicles in sufficient quantity and quality in a practical time frame for patients. This suggests that the current strategies may have reached their limitations in achieving successful hair follicle bioengineering for clinical applications. Novel approaches are required to overcome these barriers, such as focusing on embryonic cell types and processes in combination with emerging techniques.