A quarter century of wine pigment discovery.

The red grape berry pigments, anthocyanins, were characterized in the early 20th century, but investigations of wine pigments were stymied during that era. The question of their identity was a major challenge for wine chemists. A number of techniques showed that the pigments were polymeric in nature. Some structures were postulated by mid-century based on reactions between anthocyanins and condensed tannin, and later postulated wine pigments were observed in model reactions. Some related compounds were then observed in wine. By the end of the 20th century, the ionization of non-volatiles for mass spectrometry opened the door to these compounds. In addition, a new class of compounds was observed, the pyranoanthocyanins, a product of fermentation and aging metabolites with anthocyanins. These compounds possess the pigment stability to SO2 and pH change that is characteristic of aged red wine. Aging experiments show a dynamic situation with shifts in the population of pigment classes over time. The very large number of diverse pigments explains why it has been so difficult to answer the century-old question of the structure of wine pigments. Our current understanding is founded on the use of mass spectral analysis using electrospray and related ionization techniques over the last 25 years. Future progress will rely on more sophisticated analysis of this very complex mixture of substances. © 2019 Society of Chemical Industry.