Microscopic Analysis of the Water/Glycerol/EO30PS System in Bulk and on a Solid Substrate.

Surfactant systems are often employed in cosmetic formulations where they dry on skin as a surface, thereby becoming increasingly concentrated systems. To better understand this drying process, we focused on the difference of self-assembled structures of the water/glycerol/polyoxyethylene (30) phytosteryl ether (EO30PS) system in bulk and on a solid substrate because the interaction between the substrate and the surfactant may have a substantial effect on the self-assembly, which may be related to the bulk structure but in detail may also differ strongly from the bulk situation. In bulk, small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) experiments showed that with increasing loss of water, the degree of ordering increases but changes of the aggregate structure are rather small. The results indicate that ellipsoidal micelles of EO30PS are densely packed and simply become more ordered in bulk during the drying process. On the other hand, neutron reflectometry revealed that EO30PS molecules adsorb onto a Si surface in the form of bilayers and analysis indicates that at a high concentration ( c = 20 wt %), there are on average two bilayers (a double bilayer) on the Si substrate. The adsorbed membrane structure of EO30PS is rather thin with respect to its hydrophobic part, indicating tilted molecules, containing only some solvent, and being not highly ordered. These experimental results then allow for a much deeper understanding of the structural properties of practical formulations as they are applied, for instance, in cosmetic lotions.